Malta: Neolithic sites, Forts and The Three Cities

The next day I had resolved to get the bus out to a neolithic site then make my way slowly back to the hotel by walking and boating. However, first on the agenda was, naturally, coffee. Whilst figuring out my plan and drinking my coffee the MSC Europa began to enter the Valletta harbour. I watched in envy of all the fantastic places they would have visited, though this feeling passed rather quickly as I too was enjoying a fantastic place!

I decided to set off and hopped on the 13A toward Valletta, with a quick change at Bombi 3 I made my way on the 84 to Ħal Tarxien. Once I arrived I set on to the site, which thankfully was covered by a tarpaulin meaning I was able to take some shade from the January sun. I was able to enter for free with my pass that I had purchased earlier in the trip. The site was discovered by a farmer in 1913 and is an impressive example of Neolithic structures. It is thought to still have been in use during the Early Bronze Age. The site itself has a walk way around it then you are able to venture down to ground level and explore inside. If you would like to learn more about the site follow the link: Ħal Tarxien Prehistoric Complex – Heritage Malta

Once I had taken in my fill of Ħal Tarxien I made my way toward Birgu one of Malta’s Three Cities; Vittoriosa (Birgu), Senglea (Isla) and Cospicua (Bormla). The walk was plesant and took me roughly 45 minutes. It was nice to get a little lost in the residential areas of Malta seeing some of the real rather than just the tourist attractions. Once I arrived at the square I found a nice little outdoor cafe area and stopped for some food. I was able to try one of the famous Malteese snacks, a Pastizzi. I went with the chicken one as the vegetable one wasn’t really my style, along with a chicken and mushroom pie. The Pastizzi and pie were both delicious and I can certainly understand the hype behind the Pastizzi. After a little rest I headed toward the Inquisitor’s Palace only to find once again I made the mistake of not making sure it was open that day! Slightly dejected I continued on toward Fort St. Angelo.

Birgu was one of the major defences during the Great Siege, in fact it was from Birgu and St. Angelo that Jean Parisot de Valette lead the defence of the island, so I was very much looking forward to seeing the fort. As I got closer it was edging closer to midday and I remembered my intention to venture down to the base of the fort to watch the Saluting Battery from another angle, in fact it would be firing straight at me from the point I decided to view it. As I made my way down to watch I saw the massive ship, the MSC Europa again, docked in Valletta. This went some way to explain the rather large influx of tourists I was encountering. After watching the Battery firing I walked up to to the fort and made my way in.

The fort, with a fantastic and long history, was exactly as I expected, a bastion of defence with towering walls and battle scars of an intrepid life from as early at 1274 to 1945. As someone who had a little knowledge of the history of Malta I was surpised that I had certainly heard of Fort St. Elmo, but not St. Angleo, arguably the true hero of The Great Seige.

Naturally the fort is rather large and whist venturing round I was a little happier about the Inquisitor’s Palace being shut! It really would have been a long day otherwise. Making my way around I found at the top of the fort a rather nice garden area along with what seemed to be a home or two, I imagine it would be a rather nice place to live! During my wander I found the title picture carved into one of the arches, arguably my favorite little find of the day. There were various rooms explaing the history of the fort one with a somewhat large Trireme-like ship built to project the early story of the fort onto its sails which was most impressive.

There was also a chapel dedicated to St. Anne which had an interesting red granite column in the middle of the nave. Apparently it is associated with many legends, with rumuors suggesting it was brought in 1530 as a ballast for the Knights’ galleys during their trip from Rhodes, another claiming it was part of an ancient Roman temple that was on the same site. Either way the column being installed in the chapel makes it the only rectangular chapel in Malta to have a double nave. Follow the link to read more about the fort: Fort St Angelo – Heritage Malta

After the fort I decided, due to the influx of tourists from the crusie ship, that I would make my way back to Sliema and my hotel. First I ventured back toward Birgu from the fort and jumped on one of the many small boats going to Valletta. Having paid my €3 I was able to get some great views of the harbour, MSC Europa, Fort St. Angelo, Elmo and Valletta itself. Once on the shores of Valletta I traversed the penisula under the Queen Victoria Gate and over to the other ferry port. Another €3 and I was heading back to Sliema with the awesome backdrop of Valletta and St John’s Co-Cathedral.

A short walk later and I was back in my hotel room after a successful day of wandering, naturally taking time to plan my adventure to Gozo the next day, an adventure that went somewhat awry, but that’s for next time.